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phantom limb (2019)

“The contemporary plague of pain is a core expression of the late-modern biopower, and in the case of phantoms, it has functioned as nothing less than a form of the biopolitical ‘reinvention of nature’ itself.” Phantom limb is an invisible perception from a previously amputed limb. The collection is tracing the feeling of “once there” and combing this abnormal sensation with historical medical aspect. Starting from my grandmother’s memory mistake story, I developed this theme in three phases and decided to go with “classical futurism” silhouettes and materials. 

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Everything starts with my 69 years old grandmother. She loves everything to be clean and organized and kept well in her ways. Since a few years ago, she started to say that there are thieves always come into their house. Sometimes she found her coins went missing or the bowls and plates she kept in the cabinet messed up. At the beginning, my grandfather believed and bought her a cctv camera. They even moved from the old house. But when the frequency that she said something is missing went higher and the camera shot nothing, nobody believed her story and the fact was nothing important went away. My grandfather even took her to hospital to check whether it’s psycho problem but nothing’s wrong with the results. The doctor believed maybe it’s the Alzheimer’s disease harbinger.

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Her memories twisted very slightly to create this Mr. Thief in her imagination. And I found it very interesting that it has similarity to glitch art, nothing is seriously wrong with her brain right now, it’s just very small random difference that haunted her. Brain’s memory could be considered as computer system, when muscle memories repeat too many times an unexpected result of a malfunction could happen. 

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her compulsive behaviors: wrapping and layering things

(trace study)

PHANTOM LIMB
IS LIKE A
BRAIN GLITCH

The collection is tracing the feeling of “once there” and combing this abnormal sensation with historical medical aspect.

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"We always feel something about what we feel. If phantom sensation is clearly not pain, and cannot by its very definition be nothing, it must be pleasure." 

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collages and silhouettes variations 

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sketches and making process

Interview with target user

Maggie, 20, FD students, China, love music

Do you remember what you wore 3 days ago? Why you remember it? 

Pink wide leg pants, dark blue knit top, denim jacket. Three days ago, I was at a backstage in fashion week, I remember what I wore because other people all wore black but I forgot so I wore pink and blue. But my boss said the styling is cool and fit the brand. Though it’s a little bit awkward since only I am colorful. A lot of clothes I like are loose garments that make me feel comfortable and surrounded. I found I don’t have any clothes that expose my body a lot. 

What moment do you really miss from home? Do you think what color is this moment? 

When I was alone doing something that needs help or guidance. If it’s in China, I know I have people to rely on and even the language is more familiar and informative for me. The moment that I was in Nanjing will flashback at this time, having someone to ask and rely on make me feel safe and it feels like color orange. 

Is it visual, sounds, touch make you remember?

I think sounds and visual aspects make me flashback most. When I listened to my playlist and there’s appear a song that I used to listen in China, I will skip it. Listening to it make me feel like being in that familiar nostalgia environment again. Also, when I go to Chinatown, I feel the same as well. Though Chinatown is like a weird combination of culture, but it’s warm. 

What music/song do you think your favorite clothes could fit in?

My style is definitely changed. I like really exaggerated, colorful clothes now. I will say fka twigs.

What is the most beautiful thing that you ever seen that decays? (ruins…)

Temple of Athens. Though I don’t know a lot about it but, it’s really incredibly high and beautiful. In my opinion, it already become a kind of symbol of chic neo-classism in nowadays culture. It shows in a lot of tv series and animation. 

What thing that you want to forget most? Will it impact your daily routine? 

I want to forget the time period when I was in high school, where teens judge a person through appearance and clothes. It was a time when I confused about judging system plays in the society. I cannot even imagine what I would wear when I am an adult because it’s so confusing. If I don’t have that time in mind, I will be more open, bald, wear what I want to wear, do what I want to do. 

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photo shoot and final illustrations 

Special thanks to:

Photographer/ Yanting Chen

Stylist/ Chun Yang

Makeup Artist/ Shelley Chen

Model/ Hannah Ladgewig】

PHANTOM SKIP
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